Tuesday 4 December 2012

Fashion Objects in Context



It is 1948. Taking a drag on his African Cameroon wrapped Partagas cigar, Charlie Samuels was ready to call his only son, John, after a long day at the mines. Or so he imagined. Mr. Samuels is 89 years old, a sufferer of Dementia living in Rosemead, California with his wife Marilyn. He had a very fortunate child hood but also extremely sheltered; his father was one of the few who got lucky during the California Gold Rush in 1848.

On January 24th 1848, James Marshall found a few tiny gold nuggets by the American River near Sacramento. This started one of the largest human migrations as millions of people all over the world travelled to California hoping also to achieve this dream. The first notice of this discovery was printed in the March issue of ‘The Californian’ in San Francisco. Soon other people found golden nuggets in the Feather River and Trinity River. Quartz mining began in 1849 in Mariposa County and gold was regularly found in the quartz veins. In 1850, gold bearing quartz was found at Gold Hill in Grass Valley. This directed the expansion of the underground mines in that district and a huge industry that continued for more than 100 years. By 1852, California’s annual gold production reached $81 million.

Mr. Samuels lived a happy life until he was diagnosed with Dementia. Dementia is a syndrome that occurs when the brain is affected by specific diseases and conditions. Symptoms include memory loss, depression, visual and mental hallucinations and changes in personality and mood. Mr. Samuels was heavily affected and having his only son dying in 1940, it certainly has not been any kinder to him. Since he was diagnosed in 1938 he has almost lost all sense of reality. One day Mr. Samuels insisted to his wife Marilyn on cleaning the attic. After spending half the day rummaging through his old coal mining tools he brought down a pair of denim waist overalls he used to wear everyday on the mines. Marilyn had not seen Mr. Samuels’s face with such delight since he knew of his illness. The indigo denim waist overalls were so beautifully dirty and worn. You could make out one side of the selvedge edge tearing and fraying at the seam and multiple holes around the knee and ankle areas. While he scurried down the ladder as fast as he could he tried to unbutton and unzip the overalls, but his mind could not judge the distance he had between each step and fell midway. Normally failing to do something as simple as stepping down the ladder would frustrate Mr. Samuels so much he would curse and hit himself, sometimes even cry. Marilyn dashed to the hallway and stopped watch to in awe as for the first time her husband smiled and ignored the fact he just fell and probably twisted an ankle. He pulled himself up from the banister of the stairs and limped to his room closing the door. Five minutes later he came out wearing his denim overalls and his wife has not seen him wear a different pair of trousers since.

Denim is thought to have originated from the name ‘serge de Nimes’; a twill fabric of a wool and silk mix produced in the South of France. However, the denim made in America in the late eighteenth century was made of cotton. In the early 1870’s a tailor named Jacob Davis was one day requested to create pair of strong pants for a woodcutter. Workmen’s trousers at the time wore out and tore very quickly at the weak stress points. Davis decided to hammer copper rivets into the corners of all the pockets, hoping to strengthen them. Eventually these riveted pants were extremely popular, and his business was being spread by word of mouth to many other workers who were also in need of stronger trousers.  Understanding that this major success could be easily reproduced by others, Davis contacted Levi Strauss who was at the time a supplier of dry goods to fund a patent application. He offered a half share of his invention and in May 1873, the patent was finally granted for an ‘improvement in fastening seams’.  This patent meant that Levi Strauss & Co. was the only company that could produce these riveted pants between 1873 and 1890 until the patent went into public domain. Soon the first riveted overalls were being manufactured and sold. There is no exact date as historical records were lost in the earthquake of 1906. The denim used for these riveted pants were from the Amoskeag mill in Manchester, New Hampshire which was known for its high quality of fabrics.

‘Waist overalls’ was the original name for work trousers because the early pants were designed to be worn like protective work gear over normal street clothes. People started to wear them as normal pants and were then just called overalls after 1900.  

What Marilyn thought was an encouraging moment for her husband turned out to be a rerun of disheartening visions. This was eventually going to be one of Mr. Samuel’s first mental hallucinations as the next morning he woke up, lit his cigar and dialed his son’s number on his rotary dial telephone to rant about his day at the mines. He had retired from coal mining 15 years ago. Mr. Samuels would call his son, John, everyday but no matter how much John and Marilyn explained that he does not work on the mines anymore, he would not listen and persisted. They never knew whether their father and husband did this intentionally, to in a way, relive his days when he could function properly mentally and physically or if it was a result of his Dementia worsening. But John decided to keep his father content and happy and listened to him talk about his day mining every day no matter how busy he was in New York.      

In the 1600’s, when the founders of America settled in the eastern seaboard, they did not expect to find that the land underneath them contained enormous amounts of coal. In fact, colonial blacksmiths, who were the first users of coal, fired their furnaces using stone coal and fossil coal imported from Nova Scotia and England. The first coal miners in America were likely to be farmers who dug the coal from beds exposed on the surface. In 1748 the first production of coal began from the mines in Richmond, Virginia. At the time the coal was being used to construct shell, shot and other war material during the Revolutionary War. By the 1800s, the Americans discovered even larger amounts of coal beneath their land and found other ways of using the coal. For example in southwestern Pennsylvania, the coal was being burned to heat salt brines to provide sources of salt. The demand for coal was growing stronger and stronger and the steam shovel was invented in 1839. This transformed the growing coal industry to mechanized surface mining. In the 1870s, coal demand soared through the roof. Coke, a product of heating coal, became the chief fuel for iron blast furnaces. Electric power generation is today’s primary use of coal and can be traced back to Thomas Edison. He built the first practical coal-fired electric generating station in 1882 and this supplied electricity to some residents in New York City.

Some mornings Mr. Samuels would wake up from dreaming about his day’s coal mining. Just like today, thinking he really did just come back from work, he would hurry over to his telephone, ready to call John.

Mr. Samuels owned a Model 202 Western Electric rotary dial telephone. This was a gift from John so he could keep in constant contact with his parents when he moved to New York. It sat on the middle of his oval top wooden stand in the centre of the sitting area. He was fond of rocking on his chair in space whenever on the phone; he would like to think that he deserved it since he did spend the whole day on his feet and knees mining. This phone was introduced in 1930; it is easily recognized by its oval base. The E1 handset was almost unchanged with its unique ‘spit cup’ to focus the speaker’s voice into the transmitter. 



From the 1830’s, there was a variety of inventions of dials for sending telegraph signals. In 1877, construction of the first regular telephone line was completed from Boston to Massachusetts and by the end of 1880 there almost 48,000 telephones in the United States. The first patented dial telephone was jointly granted to Connolly and McTighe in 1879 and in 1882, Leroy Firman received the first patent for a telephone switchboard. There were many competitors, and 26 patents of push buttons, dials and similar mechanisms to indicate which telephone subscriber was requested were issued before 1891. Many of the inventions required extremely expensive, complex mechanisms and involved the dialer to carry out difficult manipulations.


Taking another puff from his cigar, Mr. Samuels dialed John’s number. After five attempts of trying to get through to John, he ignores the fact that John has indeed not answered and begins his conversation, sometimes speaking as if he is replying to Johns comment. This of course is disheartening for Marilyn to see, everyday she would watch her husband repeat these actions. It is out of her control and every night she prays for the day Mr. Samuels’s syndrome disappears. Yet, as each day goes on, watching her husband reminds her that it will never happen. Their son died in 1940, and the tragedy of this deeply worsened Mr. Samuels Dementia. Eventually suffering from mental hallucinations, for the past six years his wife has not only been his lifelong partner, but his carer and protector.

Long before Christopher Columbus arrived in the New World, natives of Hispaniola in Central America already smoked tobacco for their religious rituals and for pleasure. While on his journey in 1492, Columbus’ two crewmen first encountered tobacco when they were presented with dry leaves that had an unusual aroma. Tobacco was not smoked in the forms of cigars that we have today, Indians in Cuba twisted the dried tobacco leaves and wrapped them in either plantain or palm leaves.

Schlottmann, a merchant from Hamburg discovered the cigar in Spain. He was deeply intrigued and started to produce them in 1788. They did not sell well initially because pipe-tobacco was much cheaper. In 1809, the Brockhaus Conversation Lexicon stated, ‘A particular method of smoking tobacco should be mentioned here, namely the cigarros: these are leaves which are rolled together to form hollow cylinders of about the thickness of a finger, are then lit at one end and smoked by inserting the other end in the mouth. This method of smoking, which is used instead of a pipe in Spanish America, is beginning to be common in our country; whether it results in an enhanced enjoyment of the tobacco, or not, is difficult to determine.’ Cigar smoking gradually spread, it was popular because the amount of preparation was much easier than a pipe. Eventually only lower class people smoked pipes while fashion conscious gentlemen dragged on cigars.  



Europeans also discovered that cigars travelled better than tobacco. The cigar eventually arrived in North America in the 17th century where tobacco had been grown by settlers with enormous amounts of Cuban tobacco seeds and a selection of Havana cigars. Factories were later set up in the area of Connecticut to process the tobacco. In the early 19th century, Cuban cigars were being imported in considerable numbers. But cigar smoking itself did not become so popular until the time of the Civil War in the 1860s. By the end of the 19th century many individual brands emerged and the cigar became a status symbol.


Quality cigars are still carefully handmade to this day. Blending up to 10 different types of tobacco creates the most aspired effect. It takes three elements to produce a cigar; ‘filler’, ‘binder’ and ‘wrapper’.  The maker chooses a reasonable proportion of filling, forms the shape, rolls a leaf around it and presses it into a mould made of wood. Another worker takes the pressed roll and gives the cigar its outer form. The finished cigars are sorted into colors and American producers have sorters that divide the cigars into wide categories: grey, fawn, blond, brown and red before being divided into anything up to 180 finely differentiated colors. Mr. Samuels has only one type of cigar that he smokes; the African Cameroon wrapped Partagas.
                
Marilyn was going to see this image of her husband wearing his old coal mining overalls, rocking on his wooden oak chair, puffing on his African Cameroon wrapped Partagas cigar and talking to his late son on his rotary dial telephone.