Tuesday, 4 December 2012

Fashion Objects in Context



It is 1948. Taking a drag on his African Cameroon wrapped Partagas cigar, Charlie Samuels was ready to call his only son, John, after a long day at the mines. Or so he imagined. Mr. Samuels is 89 years old, a sufferer of Dementia living in Rosemead, California with his wife Marilyn. He had a very fortunate child hood but also extremely sheltered; his father was one of the few who got lucky during the California Gold Rush in 1848.

On January 24th 1848, James Marshall found a few tiny gold nuggets by the American River near Sacramento. This started one of the largest human migrations as millions of people all over the world travelled to California hoping also to achieve this dream. The first notice of this discovery was printed in the March issue of ‘The Californian’ in San Francisco. Soon other people found golden nuggets in the Feather River and Trinity River. Quartz mining began in 1849 in Mariposa County and gold was regularly found in the quartz veins. In 1850, gold bearing quartz was found at Gold Hill in Grass Valley. This directed the expansion of the underground mines in that district and a huge industry that continued for more than 100 years. By 1852, California’s annual gold production reached $81 million.

Mr. Samuels lived a happy life until he was diagnosed with Dementia. Dementia is a syndrome that occurs when the brain is affected by specific diseases and conditions. Symptoms include memory loss, depression, visual and mental hallucinations and changes in personality and mood. Mr. Samuels was heavily affected and having his only son dying in 1940, it certainly has not been any kinder to him. Since he was diagnosed in 1938 he has almost lost all sense of reality. One day Mr. Samuels insisted to his wife Marilyn on cleaning the attic. After spending half the day rummaging through his old coal mining tools he brought down a pair of denim waist overalls he used to wear everyday on the mines. Marilyn had not seen Mr. Samuels’s face with such delight since he knew of his illness. The indigo denim waist overalls were so beautifully dirty and worn. You could make out one side of the selvedge edge tearing and fraying at the seam and multiple holes around the knee and ankle areas. While he scurried down the ladder as fast as he could he tried to unbutton and unzip the overalls, but his mind could not judge the distance he had between each step and fell midway. Normally failing to do something as simple as stepping down the ladder would frustrate Mr. Samuels so much he would curse and hit himself, sometimes even cry. Marilyn dashed to the hallway and stopped watch to in awe as for the first time her husband smiled and ignored the fact he just fell and probably twisted an ankle. He pulled himself up from the banister of the stairs and limped to his room closing the door. Five minutes later he came out wearing his denim overalls and his wife has not seen him wear a different pair of trousers since.

Denim is thought to have originated from the name ‘serge de Nimes’; a twill fabric of a wool and silk mix produced in the South of France. However, the denim made in America in the late eighteenth century was made of cotton. In the early 1870’s a tailor named Jacob Davis was one day requested to create pair of strong pants for a woodcutter. Workmen’s trousers at the time wore out and tore very quickly at the weak stress points. Davis decided to hammer copper rivets into the corners of all the pockets, hoping to strengthen them. Eventually these riveted pants were extremely popular, and his business was being spread by word of mouth to many other workers who were also in need of stronger trousers.  Understanding that this major success could be easily reproduced by others, Davis contacted Levi Strauss who was at the time a supplier of dry goods to fund a patent application. He offered a half share of his invention and in May 1873, the patent was finally granted for an ‘improvement in fastening seams’.  This patent meant that Levi Strauss & Co. was the only company that could produce these riveted pants between 1873 and 1890 until the patent went into public domain. Soon the first riveted overalls were being manufactured and sold. There is no exact date as historical records were lost in the earthquake of 1906. The denim used for these riveted pants were from the Amoskeag mill in Manchester, New Hampshire which was known for its high quality of fabrics.

‘Waist overalls’ was the original name for work trousers because the early pants were designed to be worn like protective work gear over normal street clothes. People started to wear them as normal pants and were then just called overalls after 1900.  

What Marilyn thought was an encouraging moment for her husband turned out to be a rerun of disheartening visions. This was eventually going to be one of Mr. Samuel’s first mental hallucinations as the next morning he woke up, lit his cigar and dialed his son’s number on his rotary dial telephone to rant about his day at the mines. He had retired from coal mining 15 years ago. Mr. Samuels would call his son, John, everyday but no matter how much John and Marilyn explained that he does not work on the mines anymore, he would not listen and persisted. They never knew whether their father and husband did this intentionally, to in a way, relive his days when he could function properly mentally and physically or if it was a result of his Dementia worsening. But John decided to keep his father content and happy and listened to him talk about his day mining every day no matter how busy he was in New York.      

In the 1600’s, when the founders of America settled in the eastern seaboard, they did not expect to find that the land underneath them contained enormous amounts of coal. In fact, colonial blacksmiths, who were the first users of coal, fired their furnaces using stone coal and fossil coal imported from Nova Scotia and England. The first coal miners in America were likely to be farmers who dug the coal from beds exposed on the surface. In 1748 the first production of coal began from the mines in Richmond, Virginia. At the time the coal was being used to construct shell, shot and other war material during the Revolutionary War. By the 1800s, the Americans discovered even larger amounts of coal beneath their land and found other ways of using the coal. For example in southwestern Pennsylvania, the coal was being burned to heat salt brines to provide sources of salt. The demand for coal was growing stronger and stronger and the steam shovel was invented in 1839. This transformed the growing coal industry to mechanized surface mining. In the 1870s, coal demand soared through the roof. Coke, a product of heating coal, became the chief fuel for iron blast furnaces. Electric power generation is today’s primary use of coal and can be traced back to Thomas Edison. He built the first practical coal-fired electric generating station in 1882 and this supplied electricity to some residents in New York City.

Some mornings Mr. Samuels would wake up from dreaming about his day’s coal mining. Just like today, thinking he really did just come back from work, he would hurry over to his telephone, ready to call John.

Mr. Samuels owned a Model 202 Western Electric rotary dial telephone. This was a gift from John so he could keep in constant contact with his parents when he moved to New York. It sat on the middle of his oval top wooden stand in the centre of the sitting area. He was fond of rocking on his chair in space whenever on the phone; he would like to think that he deserved it since he did spend the whole day on his feet and knees mining. This phone was introduced in 1930; it is easily recognized by its oval base. The E1 handset was almost unchanged with its unique ‘spit cup’ to focus the speaker’s voice into the transmitter. 



From the 1830’s, there was a variety of inventions of dials for sending telegraph signals. In 1877, construction of the first regular telephone line was completed from Boston to Massachusetts and by the end of 1880 there almost 48,000 telephones in the United States. The first patented dial telephone was jointly granted to Connolly and McTighe in 1879 and in 1882, Leroy Firman received the first patent for a telephone switchboard. There were many competitors, and 26 patents of push buttons, dials and similar mechanisms to indicate which telephone subscriber was requested were issued before 1891. Many of the inventions required extremely expensive, complex mechanisms and involved the dialer to carry out difficult manipulations.


Taking another puff from his cigar, Mr. Samuels dialed John’s number. After five attempts of trying to get through to John, he ignores the fact that John has indeed not answered and begins his conversation, sometimes speaking as if he is replying to Johns comment. This of course is disheartening for Marilyn to see, everyday she would watch her husband repeat these actions. It is out of her control and every night she prays for the day Mr. Samuels’s syndrome disappears. Yet, as each day goes on, watching her husband reminds her that it will never happen. Their son died in 1940, and the tragedy of this deeply worsened Mr. Samuels Dementia. Eventually suffering from mental hallucinations, for the past six years his wife has not only been his lifelong partner, but his carer and protector.

Long before Christopher Columbus arrived in the New World, natives of Hispaniola in Central America already smoked tobacco for their religious rituals and for pleasure. While on his journey in 1492, Columbus’ two crewmen first encountered tobacco when they were presented with dry leaves that had an unusual aroma. Tobacco was not smoked in the forms of cigars that we have today, Indians in Cuba twisted the dried tobacco leaves and wrapped them in either plantain or palm leaves.

Schlottmann, a merchant from Hamburg discovered the cigar in Spain. He was deeply intrigued and started to produce them in 1788. They did not sell well initially because pipe-tobacco was much cheaper. In 1809, the Brockhaus Conversation Lexicon stated, ‘A particular method of smoking tobacco should be mentioned here, namely the cigarros: these are leaves which are rolled together to form hollow cylinders of about the thickness of a finger, are then lit at one end and smoked by inserting the other end in the mouth. This method of smoking, which is used instead of a pipe in Spanish America, is beginning to be common in our country; whether it results in an enhanced enjoyment of the tobacco, or not, is difficult to determine.’ Cigar smoking gradually spread, it was popular because the amount of preparation was much easier than a pipe. Eventually only lower class people smoked pipes while fashion conscious gentlemen dragged on cigars.  



Europeans also discovered that cigars travelled better than tobacco. The cigar eventually arrived in North America in the 17th century where tobacco had been grown by settlers with enormous amounts of Cuban tobacco seeds and a selection of Havana cigars. Factories were later set up in the area of Connecticut to process the tobacco. In the early 19th century, Cuban cigars were being imported in considerable numbers. But cigar smoking itself did not become so popular until the time of the Civil War in the 1860s. By the end of the 19th century many individual brands emerged and the cigar became a status symbol.


Quality cigars are still carefully handmade to this day. Blending up to 10 different types of tobacco creates the most aspired effect. It takes three elements to produce a cigar; ‘filler’, ‘binder’ and ‘wrapper’.  The maker chooses a reasonable proportion of filling, forms the shape, rolls a leaf around it and presses it into a mould made of wood. Another worker takes the pressed roll and gives the cigar its outer form. The finished cigars are sorted into colors and American producers have sorters that divide the cigars into wide categories: grey, fawn, blond, brown and red before being divided into anything up to 180 finely differentiated colors. Mr. Samuels has only one type of cigar that he smokes; the African Cameroon wrapped Partagas.
                
Marilyn was going to see this image of her husband wearing his old coal mining overalls, rocking on his wooden oak chair, puffing on his African Cameroon wrapped Partagas cigar and talking to his late son on his rotary dial telephone.


Wednesday, 2 November 2011

American Apparel



American Apparel is an industrial revolution.

American Apparel is a vertically integrated manufacturer, distributor and retailer, based in downtown Los Angeles, California. We currently employ approximately 10,000 people globally (about 5,000 in LA), and operate more than 285 retail stores in 20 countries. 

American Apparel leverages art, design and technology to advance the business process, while continuing to pioneer industry standards of social and environmental responsibility in the workplace.

Colour scheme and co-ordination is an important factor for American Apparel’s vision. Just by strolling past a store you will notice a rainbow of colours flash before your eyes; whether it be a hoodie, skirt or trousers. Specialising in high quality basics, they do cost a tad more than your usual t-shirt or hoodie, but when made with organic cottons and seeing them in a wide range of colours, it is worth the extra bit of money.
            What is interesting with the way they promote the brand is the use of provocative adverts. They do not necessarily use models, sometimes it could be fans and employees all over the world which is very cool. What other brand let’s you take part like that? They also produce everything in house without the help of ad agencies, re-touchers, make up artists and stylists.

                               
            Something I have noticed every time I walk past a store is their choice and number of colours they use. Right now they are promoting reds and beiges, on simple mannequins which emphasises the colour blocking and way we can wear different colours. They also have printed leggings and tights which are extremely popular, seeing as whenever I want a pair they don’t have my size! Their displays are pretty simple, with metal railings all on the walls, and pictures of ‘models’ wearing each item of clothing. I like this idea as I sometimes have no clue how to wear some of their garments.
            Prices can start at around £9 for nail polish to £100 for a coat which to be honest is quite normal for coats these days, not that I would be able to casually buy one when I wanted.

Every year American Apparel have a huge sale where items go up to 90% off! I did go last year and luckily enough I missed the rioting. This year on the other hand had much more security, clothing was still nearly arranged by colour and was much easier to walk through! The sale itself wasn’t the best, some items were not worth going on sale and some of the stuff I bought I totally regret! That will most probably be going on eBay; when I have the time that is.




The Kooples



What is the Kooples?
By Stephanie Hussonois
The Kooples is bringing chic back to the streets, dressing men and women in sharp allure, with a style borrowed from icons of fashion and a love for vintage.
This franco-british elegance made for urban living has everything from dress shirts to party dresses, jeans to suits, shoes to jewels, and a state of mind that has the somber thoughts of night owls falling in love in the early hours of the morning. – TheKooples.co.uk
Located in eight areas in London, including Central London and Westfield, The Kooples are definitely making a statement. The chic designs, mixing both Parisian and British styles just ooze edgy sophistication, whilst showing their vintage and iconic fashion influences. Three brothers named Alexandre, Laurent and Raphael are behind this genius brand. Another interesting fact is that they have now teamed up with Savile Row; experts in tailoring. While founders Alexander Elicha visited Norton & Sons in search of a suit they discovered they did consulting work for other fashion houses. Alexandre and Laurent would go to them with an idea, sketch, picture or technical drawing and they cut customs based on Savile Row’s own interpretation of ideas. Savile Row would produce the finished samples from which the brand would create for their stores. They are specific with what they want; complicated details such as collar details, cuffs, concealed pockets and other unique touches. You get a tradition of beautiful tailoring with a 21st century twist.



                         
            Music is an integral part if the brand’s image; they are soon to be launching records whose style includes indie, pop, electro and folk. Most songs are sung in French and English and they are obsessed with music form the 80’s. Good choice.
The first time I stepped into The Kooples was in Westfield, Stratford. Displays were simple, and didn’t need any extravagant lights or gimicks. It emphasises the fact that their clothes speak for themselves.. Adverts were everywhere on buses and taxis, showing different couples living in France and the UK. The place was tidy, garments in size order and separated either half of the store for men and women. I loved nearly everything there, especially the Men’s collection seeing as I always want a more masculine touch to clothes that I buy (men have the prefect wardrobe!) Being a student does not help since I could not afford a thing, otherwise I would be sporting their leather lapels and crimson skinny jeans. Their prices range from £65 for a printed tee shirt to as much as £1000+ for a coat. I can still dream, right?


Tuesday, 25 October 2011

American Apparel Flea Market!

So last Friday I headed to Brick Lane with my boyfriend and a friend after uni for the American Apparel sale. I also went to the one last year and it was pretty good despite the riots! So this year I was expecting the same but to be honest it wasn't as great! Even though it was pretty well organised it was hard finding anything for me or what I wanted, but then again I am very picky. We probably spent about two hours there since we couldn't decide what to buy (apart from the boyfriend, he was done within 30 mins). It got to closing time and security were screaming telling everyone to queue to pay so I started panicking because I STILL COULDN'T DECIDE...I really hate being indecisive sometimes...bring broke didn't really help either. Eventually I came out with a jacket, blazer, cardigan and a dress for £77. And even after that I wasn't happy! I still think I picked them out of panic, not that I didn't like any of them , I just thought I could have got better! Plus all the stuff that I did want didn't fit me, damn you Summer time for making me putting on about half a stone! =[ Anyway here are some pictures which I got my boyfriend to take on his phone hehe. :)











After that draining event, we headed to Cinnamon for some curry! :D Mmmmmmm, plus we used our tastecard...THE POWER OF DISCOUNTS! If you don't know what the tastecard is then you need to! It's a discount card which gives you 50% or 2 for 1 in thousandssssssssssss of restaurants in London, it costs £70 for the card which lasts for 1 year but trust me it is so worth it, after a few meals that'll cover up the £70 so imagine how much you'll be saving for the whole year! It has also made me try new restaurants which is really fun!

Okay back to uni work now, I really want a strawberry cheesecake to keep me going. Sighs*

Goodnight!

Tuesday, 18 October 2011

SICK.

When I saw the news of a 2 year old girl (Yue Yue) being run over by a lorry in China, being run over again by another lorry and have 18 passers by ignore her I was so traumatised, livid and upset. Are they even human?? I couldn't believe what I was watching. What set me off even more was watching the first driver run over the girl with the first set of wheels, hardly checks what he just hit and carries on driving, crushing the girl once more. It sickens me so much every time I think about it, seeing such a young girl just lie there with no one helping her, seeing strangers look at her and walk straight past. I know why the passers by chose to ignore the little girl, as one person wrote online: 'Would you be willing to throw your entire family's savings into the endless whirlpool of accident compensation? Aren't you afraid of being put into jail as the perpetrator? Have you ever considered that your whole family could lose happiness only because you wanted to be a great soul?" I just do not understand it at all, is that really the first thing you think of when you see a person dying?? Even though I am Chinese, I did not grow up there, so I do not fully understand their way of life, their politics and laws. But I am human, and the fact that these people did not show the slightest reaction apart from just stare for a few seconds from what I could tell completely baffles and sickens me. Yes, the parents shouId have kept an extra eye on her, but it does not dismiss that fact that you completely ignored someone dying in a pool of blood. I can go on about this for so long but I'll just keep venting to myself, I just felt I had to let this out somehow, without screaming about it constantly. I hope the drivers and the people who ignored Yue Yue feel deep guilt and pain for a LONG, LONG time. Thank you to the old woman who actually tried to help her, this reminds me that not all the people out there are heartless. I hope you make it through Yue Yue.


Quote and full article from : http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2011/oct/17/toddler-hit-and-run-china

Sunday, 16 October 2011

FOOD!

I'm such a big foodie, I love to cook and eat out (a reason why I'm always broke). On Friday I was out with my boyfriend and we decided to go to Wagamama for dinner. It's been about 3 years since I've eaten there, I kind of neglected it after finding Misato (China Town, Wardour Street). We ordered Chicken Katsu Curry, Gyoza and Yaki Udon, it was nice but my curry had a very strong clove flavour which put me off just a little but apart from that it was a good dinner. :)





I'm pretty sure the waiter was hitting on my boyfriend, he found it so awkward haha! Now... where to eat next?



Wednesday, 12 October 2011

Amazing spaces

I have always been interested in interior design and architecture and if I was not studying fashion design I would have probably gone towards this area! I came across some pictures on a friends tumblr page of interior spaces and I have to say they look amazing! 









I love the way lighting can change the atmosphere of a room. One day I'd like to design my own house, let's get this education rolling and get a job! :)